Making Serious Headway

Thanks to a quick response from Deb (Mantua-Maker.com), I realized that I was indeed over-thinking the busk pocket thing and the problem resolved itself. Thank you, Deb!

This meant that I could get cracking on the fun stuff – securing the layers and setting up the boning channels. I was zipping along when all of a sudden…

Aargh!!

Aargh!!

So I followed Skipped Stitches Rule #1 – change the needle – and popped in a new jeans needle. No improvement.

On to Skipped Stitches Rule #2 – re-thread the machine and make sure there’s no build-up in the bobbin chamber. Nada.

I am somewhat embarrassed to admit that it took me a full 30 minutes *insert rolling of eyes here* to figure out that I needed a different foot on the machine. Then it was business again as usual.

Onward, to the topic of support.

I am not obese, but I do carry about 10 (or so) pounds more than I need to and the girls do contribute their fair share. So I figured that it was going to take a bit of superstructure to hold the girls up and out.

I know not every Regency woman was thin.

A portrait of the comtesse de Provence, wife of Louis XVIII, before her death in 1810 - attributed to Marie-Eleonore Godefroid.

A portrait of the comtesse de Provence, wife of Louis XVIII, before her death in 1810 – attributed to Marie-Eleonore Godefroid.

And there are extant stays that confirm the need to support a large…presence.

Ivory coutil or denim corset, c. 1820's. That is one heck of a busk!

Ivory coutil or denim corset. That is one heck of a busk!

When I made my Victorian corset, I took care to place enough boning to prevent sagging. Since the structure is a bit different for these stays, I decided to start by shoring up the gussets with extra stitching around the inside – on the gusset fabric itself. This should help better distribute “the load” (along with adding additional bones) and prevent concentrated areas of fabric stress.

By this point I’d spent enough time at the machine for the day. Tomorrow I’ll be working on completing the boning channels and the busk pocket. Then I can sew bias tape on the lower edge of the stays.

By the way, I think the girls will have plenty of room to “play”…

reinforced bust gussets

reinforced bust gussets

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