The light blue, quilted under-petticoat is finished! It went quickly, it’s comfy, it’s warm and I hardly stabbed myself at all (did more hand sewing than I anticipated, but worth every stitch). Twill tape waist ties for front and back. Open, hemmed side slits to access pockets. Some machine work for expediency.
I think the quilted fabric creates a nice shape and my hips will certainly make their contribution.
I cut the length of quilted fabric in half (selvage to selvage) and sewed each side seam, leaving the top portion open for access to the pockets. Then I turned under each edge of the open side seam and made a reinforcing tack on the inside at the base of the opening to avoid tearing or seam separation due to fabric stress.
I pleated the front and back halves, making sure the regular box pleat was on the front and the inverted box pleat was on the back. I used purchased twill tape to cover the upper raw edge, folding it over like bias tape. (It’s a pretty sloppy job, but this isn’t intended to be a permanent piece of my 18th century wardrobe.) The tape has finished ends to prevent raveling, so I used two full lengths- one on the front and one on the back. There’s plenty of room to tie on each half comfortably.
At this point I tried it on and found that the bulky side seams weren’t letting the sides hang normally – they were straight and stiff-looking. Fortunately, since I’d cut width-wise, each side edge is a selvage edge. So I opened the seam flat – no ironing – pinned and whip-stitched them to the inside knit part of the quilted fabric. That solved the problem perfectly.
I tried it on again and marked the hem, using pins to indicate the fold. Then I trimmed the excess off the bottom and used bias tape to bind the raw hem edge. Then I whip-stitched the edge of the bias binding to the inside like I did on the side seams.
At this point it was time to start dressing the dress form. I’m going to use my high-neck Regency chemise, since I don’t have time to make an 18th century version before the event. Layering clothing on the dress form is a bit odd because I don’t have the correct stays. As a result I have to tie everything on to the metal support rods that make a “waistline.” I think I have a workable solution to the problem with the stays, but I need to experiment.
I put the petticoat on the dress form; first the back half which ties in front, and then the front half, which ties in back. Everything looks good and I have plenty of room in the side seams to get at the pockets. As soon as I make them, that is.
Next stop – the short gown.